HERE IS OUR FIRST DESIGN

Here is our first design! Having laid the foundation for our approach in Phase 1, this new chapter marks the beginning of phase 2. Let us explain more about the product, and help us by sharing your thoughts and advice throughout development.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF PHASE 1

CHAPTER 1: TTO LABEL –TOTAL TRANSPARENCY ON ORIGIN
For entry-level and midrange watches, the Swiss Made label can be obscure and ultimately mislead consumers, as most of the components are manufactured abroad. Switzerland’s real added value is its unprecedented ability to coordinate Swiss and foreign talents. We have decided to make our watches with complete transparency, and have thus created the TTO label; Total Transparency on Origin.

CHAPTER 2: TRANSPARENCY ON PRICES AND FIXED MULTIPLIER
Today the price of a watch is predominantly linked to product positioning. If the difference between the price and intrinsic value of a watch becomes too high, there is a risk of explosion. Following our commitment to transparency, we will be communicating and explaining the production cost of our watches. In addition, by selling directly to the end consumer we will be able to apply an unmatched modifier of 3.5 to the production price. The retail price will not result from product positioning; rather it will be directly related to the cost of production.

CHAPTER 3: ONLINE SALE, POP-UP STORE AND SPONSORSHIP
Distribution networks are saturated, and have not remained in line with modern purchasing behaviors. In this environment we plan to foster community power by offering a commission of 10% to anyone who generates a sale. In addition, an application will allow potential customers to meet watch owners, so that they can see the product before buying.

MECHANICAL MAGIC

The magic of mechanical watches has always fascinated, and they have been the favoured accessory of men since their introduction. This is still true today, even though technology has rendered any kitchen clock more accurate than a mechanical movement. The mechanical magic can turn any man into a child with sparkling eyes.

We wanted our first model to feel mechanical from every angle, so we made the dial an extension of the movement. We wanted the case to be simple, elegant and ergonomic, while still overflowing with character. Fine horns and crosspiece give it a particular, recognizable aesthetic.

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WHY NOT AN IN-HOUSE MOVEMENT?

The idea of developing a movement in-house is certainly tempting, so why didn’t we do it? Of course the budget and long development period are important factors, but the main reason is that such an approach would have very little chance of success in the current economic climate. Consumers have become more demanding and desire a high quality watch with a perceived high value, all without breaking their limited budgets. Therefore we plan to produce the majority of our watches using Miyota, ETA or Sellita movements. These movements are mass-produced, admittedly; however they are also of extreme quality and reliability. Our products will be distinguished by their strong aesthetic, perceived high value, and uncompromised quality.

That said, we do have some surprises in store for you in the coming weeks. Although our approach lies in the use of standard movements, we would like to collaborate with some of the most talented developers to offer you a very special series. More on that in the summer. In the meantime, we would love to hear your opinion; what kind of movement would you like on your wrist, what kind of complications? Perhaps you have a suggestion for a talented movement developer? Or an idea for a partnership? Share your opinion with us in the comments below.

WHAT IS THE DEVELOPMENT STATUS?

Here at the Goldgena Project our objective is to share everything with you; the successes and the failures, the good and the bad. We have already presented our preliminary sketches to several manufacturers to gain an indication of feasibility, as well as an estimate of the cost. In the coming weeks we will be finalizing the design and its characteristics based on your comments. We will be asking your advice on colors and bracelets, and we will be sharing with you the whole developmental process, from prototype to packaged product.

Specifications,origin and prices

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NON-SWISS MADE

TTO DESCRIPTION (ORIGIN OF SERVICES, PARTS)

Design: Switzerland
Coordination: Switzerland
Movement: Japan
Case: China
Dial: China
Bracelet: China/Italy
Assembly: China

ESTIM. COST OF PRODUCTION*
USD 200

ESTIM. RETAIL PRICE*
According to fixed Goldgena multiplier of 3.5
USD 700

ESTIM. COST OF TOOLS
CHINA

Dial: USD 500
Case: USD 1’000
Hands: USD 850

SWISS MADE

In accordance with the minimum requirements of the Law on Swissness

TTO DESCRIPTION (ORIGIN OF SERVICES, PARTS)

Design: Switzerland
Coordination: Switzerland
Movement: Swiss
Case: China
Dial: China
Bracelet: China/Italy
Assembly: Switzerland

ESTIM. COST OF PRODUCTION*
USD 400

ESTIM. RETAIL PRICE*
According to fixed Goldgena multiplier of 3.5
USD 1’400

ESTIM. COST OF TOOLS
CHINA

Dial: USD 500
Case: USD 1’000
Hands: USD 850

99% SWISS MADE

TTO DESCRIPTION (ORIGIN OF SERVICES, PARTS)

Design: Switzerland
Coordination: Switzerland
Movement: Swiss
Case: Switzerland
Dial: Switzerland
Bracelet: Switzerland
Assembly: Switzerland

ESTIM. COST OF PRODUCTION*
USD 1’200

ESTIM. RETAIL PRICE*
According to fixed Goldgena multiplier of 3.5
USD 4’200

ESTIM. COST OF TOOLS
Switzerland

Dial: USD 9’500
Case: USD 8’000
Hands: USD 4’200
* We will provide a more precise cost of production and retail price once the design is finalized and the technical study is complete.

MOVEMENT

NON-SWISS MADE CONFIGURATION
The movement used in our illustrations is the automatic Caliber MIYOTA 82S7: Central minute and hour hands, 24 hour disk, small second disk, and visible balance wheel.

SWISS MADE CONFIGURATION
There is no swiss made movement with a similar display as the MIYOTA 82S7 but an alternative could be the ETA 2893: Central minute, hour and second hand, 24 hours disc (No visible balance wheel). The design would be slightly different.

GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS

Stainless steel case 41 mm, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, Water resistance 5ATM, interchangeable straps (leather, rubber, metal, …)

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WHAT DO YOU THINK? NON-SWISS MADE, SWISS MADE, OR SWISS MANUFACTURING?

The above analysis serves to highlight the origin and cost differences between Swiss Made, non-Swiss Made, and Swiss manufactured watches. In all three cases we end up with an almost identical quality level. The housing components of scenarios 1 and 2 are identical, and easily measure up to the quality of the Swiss components. MIYOTA (Japan) and ETA (Switzerland) movements are of a very high quality, and high reliability. That said, looking at the technical data, ETA movements do show a higher level of accuracy. In concrete terms, after 3 days an ETA movement will be fast or slow by around 21 seconds, compared to 60 seconds for a MIYOTA model. Should this be considered a sufficient reason for disqualifying the Japanese movement and paying around twice as much for your watch? As we explained in Phase 1, we believe that the real added value of Switzerland is its unprecedented ability to coordinate Swiss and foreign talents. The important thing for us is not about meeting the criteria for a particular label, but to provide a high price/quality ratio, and to be completely transparent about the origin of the watch.

What do you think? Which scenario do you think is the best? Give us your opinion.

NEXT CHAPTER, JAN 16: PROJECT X41 - UPDATE

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  1. Rasson Marc says:

    Moi, je souhaite trouver une montre très personnelle, j’entends par là une montre avec un look spécial, ronde ou rectangulaire mais pas chargée en fonctions diverses.
    Elle affiche l’heure exacte d’une manière très nette et le jour et la nuit , très important aussi la nuit lorsqu’on se réveille ! Le contraste entre la couleur du fond du cadran et la couleur des aiguilles est grand et important. Elle n’as pas tout ces boutons de chrono et autres que je n’utilise jamais comme la plupart des client je pense. C’est du tape à l’oeil ! Elle n’as pas de pile, elle se recharge avec les mouvements de la vie. L’aiguille des secondes n’est pas absolument indispensable pour moi, c’est l’heure qu’il est qui compte et pas à x secondes près ! Bien sur, elle est belle et elle existe avec un bracelet en cuir dans différente couleurs.Elle n’est pas lourde et pas trop épaisse mais vu que je me trimbale avec un gsm, elle ne sert pas seulement à me donner l’heure mais aussi à m’habiller. Elle est le reflet de ma personnalité. Quand vous avez une montre qui ressemble à celle-là, contactez-moi, je l’achète. Merci de votre attention.

  2. Jian says:

    Vos idées sont vraiment valables et aussi le choix possible de la différente direction de fabrication le design et la conception sont très bonnes, mais il y à des endroits ou vraiment ca èche et je fais allusion a la fiabilité de l’étanchéité 5 ATM ca passes pas pour quelqun qui est un minimum actif ca supporte juste la pression d’une douche forte et déja un plongeon ben il y à un risque certain ! non vraiment si il y à quelque chose à améliorer c’est la de nos jours les montres on ne fait pas que les regarder ou les montrer , on les mets à rude épreuve c doit être comme nous solide à toute épreuve et c’est absolument actuellement pas le cas ! C’est très très dommage, mais cela je l’ai déja dit plusieurs fois je ne comprends pas que ca ne soit pas une priorité chez vous de plus que une couronne vissée et des joints c’est pas sorcier non ??? C’est pas la ruine non plus alors que se passes t-il ??? Il y à résistance à la fiabilité ???

  3. senacpatrick@free.fr says:

    Bonjour,
    la tendance est depuis trop longtemps de proposer des montres toujours plus volumineuses . Pensez vous être à même de présenter quelque chose qui sorte des sentiers battus et de proposer des montres qui allient l’élégance à la technique. Je veux dire des boitiers qui n’excèdent pas 35 à 39mm ?

  4. CORDA says:

    Je partage l’avis que lems22 sans pour étant être un fou tradi ! Le design a un look un peu trop massif à mon goût CourageOui Seiko ou Oméga ont quelques années de vie et de notoriété dans les mêmes gammes de prix. Par ailleurs, on trouve à la revente sur le marché des montres “vintage” de magnifiques Oméga Seamaster automatiques d’époque en bon état de marche (plus de 50 ans) à des prix très intéressants, et de même dans les ventes aux enchères non spécialisées (on peut alors souvent trouver ces modèles en or qui partent pour le prix du même en acier).

  5. Christian La Marre says:

    Je verrais une version avec un boîtier plus sobre, fond blanc, aiguilles bleues. Mouvement type quantième annuel automatique avec date, jour, mois, option phase de lune. Et année en manuel. Défi : moins cher qu’une Mont-blanc

  6. richebourg.rm@gmail.com says:

    J’adore le concept,
    Je vous félicite grandement!
    Fan de montre Swiss made, je revendique les prix exorbitant.
    Mais reste sur le fait que la précision est inégalée sur une fabrication Swiss Made.
    Je vous soutient et suis ravie de pouvoir suivre votre échappé!
    J’aimerais être dans l’an mesure du possible être contacté par un des concepteurs de ce projet.
    J’aurais une idée à soumettre.
    Bonne route en attendant

  7. Jeuxdeau57 says:

    Le mouvement ETA me semble être une bonne idée. Personnellement j’apprécie le 2436 qui affiche le jour. J’ai aussi l’habitude de garder ma montre à la piscine donc une étanchéité plus poussée est nécessaire. Sinon je craque pour ce dessin technique et moderne. J’attends la suite avec impatience.