Supplier search and next steps

After 2022 and its several intense months filled with new projects, it was time for us to give you an update on the tourbillon project! Yes, it’s true that we’ve been slow, since our last communication dates back to January, but the wait was worth it and you won’t be disappointed. That’s a promise.

In this chapter, we will briefly review the history of the tourbillon, we will of course share the progress of the project with you and finally, we will ask for your votes for the next steps! Enjoy your reading.

The tourbillon: history and original purpose

Patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, the tourbillon is a legendary complication that ranks among the Grails of every watch lover. The tourbillon is the pinnacle of the watchmaking art, and its purpose is to counteract the effects of gravity on the regularity of mechanical movements, a fact that was particularly symptomatic of the pocket watches of the time, which stayed upright in the pocket for many hours. 

How was such a feat made possible? By enclosing the heart of the watch (balance wheel, hairspring and escapement) in a mobile cage that rotates on itself, thus eliminating the effects of gravity. Today, tourbillons are more popular for the hours of skill and design required to create them, demonstrating a keen sense of horological expertise, than for their original purpose.

Since the appearance of wristwatches, the effects of gravity on the mechanism are less significant because the random movements of our wrists throughout the day already counterbalance the mechanical disturbances attributed to gravity. The tourbillon is available in many variants: simple, bi-axial, tri-axial, self-winding or manual…. There is no lack of choice.

The three best-known variants are as follows: 

Simple tourbillon

The tourbillon consists of integrating the balance-spring and escapement in the same mobile cage, which is itself integrated into the watch. On average, a minimum of 60 components are needed to create a tourbillon, which generally weighs less than 1 gram.

Bi-axial tourbillon

The bi-axial tourbillon is equipped with two concentric cages (one internal, one external) which allow it to rotate in several dimensions and thus to compensate for disturbances caused by the earth’s gravity.

Tri-axial tourbillon

As its name suggests, the tri-axial tourbillon rotates around 3 distinct axes, allowing it to almost completely cancel out the effects of gravity on the watch mechanism. The tri-axial tourbillon is one of the rarest complications in mechanical watchmaking.

Although the tourbillon is referred to as a “complication”, this is not exactly the case in the strict sense of the term. Indeed, the tourbillon does not provide a watch with an additional function or indication, unlike a date, a power reserve or a moon phase, for example. Nevertheless, it is commonly accepted to call it a “complication” because of the complexity and expertise required to create it.

Beyond its captivating aesthetics, mastered only by a handful of expert watchmakers, the tourbillon technique above all crystallises the apogee of its creator’s talent, and inspires an unparalleled fascination among watchmaking enthusiasts. Until now, only a happy few have been able to wear watches with this sophisticated complication on their wrists. 

The reason: a very high entry ticket, often set at several tens of thousands of euros and exceeding hundreds of thousands of euros for certain pieces. But today, thanks to our economic model (direct sales on our website without intermediaries and total transparency on prices), it is possible for us to reshuffle the deck and offer you the unattainable, as was the case with our first model of participatory Haute Horlogerie, the X41.

Project outlines and progress

Let’s rewind: last November, a large number of you voted in favour of the tourbillon (6,125 votes) to make it one of our future watchmaking projects, clearly ahead of the moon phase, which came second (5,634 votes). In terms of design, you have chosen a round and therefore original case, in an elegant, refined style. In short, more of a dress watch than an adventurer. 

Based on your suggestions and wishes, we got to work. The first step and the cornerstone of each of our projects: the search for the best possible partners to offer you models faithful to our values of transparency, high quality and excellent watchmaking expertise. Our rigorous selection criteria include:

  • The capacity of the partners to produce several types of tourbillons, according to your future votes;
  • The production prices, which must allow us to make this exceptional complication accessible to as many people as possible and therefore not prove too expensive while maintaining the best possible design quality;
  • The features proposed for the movement (precision, power reserve, frequency, manual or automatic winding, type of weight (peripheral or not), etc.), which will affect the final price of the project;
  • The precision of the quality controls and tests carried out to determine the reliability of the tourbillons and the proper functioning of the movement as a whole;
  • All the related but no less essential points: the guarantees offered in the event of a manufacturing defect, the manufacturing times, the location, etc.

In addition, we also evaluate our potential partners on all aesthetic points, which are very dear to us in order to respect CODE41 standards: thickness and diameter of the tourbillon and the movement as a whole, quality and rendering of the materials, etc.

Finally, on this new project, the search for suppliers is more complex than usual because it requires the use of many different types of expertise to design the case, the movement or the dial, depending on the final design that will be chosen by you. It is therefore a long-term project but the study is progressing well and the final choice of partners is well underway.

What happens next? 

Once the partner selection phase is over, we will finalise the first designs following your votes and we will come back to you with several possible styles, colours and positions for the tourbillon, in bold configurations and 100% in the spirit of CODE41. We can’t wait!

Get voting!

It’s your turn! As always, you will actively participate in the adventure of creating our models, and the tourbillon is no exception to the rule. This is why we are calling on you to choose the type of tourbillon you want for this project:

Tourbillon
at 6 or 9 o’clock

  • 1133

Generally observed price: between CHF 20’000 and CHF 60’000

Estimated selling price for CODE41: from CHF 11’000

Advantages: position of the “classic” tourbillon at 6 or 9 o’clock; this is the most affordable option for entering the world of tourbillons

Disadvantages: this is the most common configuration for a tourbillon. Less exclusive and less distinctive than the other variants

Central
tourbillon

  • 566

Generally observed price: between CHF 25’000 and CHF 80’000

Estimated selling price for CODE41: from CHF 13’000

Advantages: perfectly placed in the centre of the dial, this is aesthetically one of the most beautiful configurations possible for a tourbillon. In addition, its central layout allows for a thinner case middle thanks to a domed crystal in the centre

Disadvantages: the hands are more difficult to carry because they have to be placed around the tourbillon

Bi-axial
tourbillon

  • 349

Generally observed price: between CHF 50’000 and CHF 150’000

Estimated selling price for CODE41: from CHF 17’000

Advantages: equipped with two cages rotating in two dimensions, this tourbillon allows for greater compensation of the effects of gravity for excellent precision of operation. It is also more spectacular to observe than a simple tourbillon

Disadvantages: more difficult to design, it is therefore more expensive to produce than the “simple” tourbillon

Tri-axial
tourbillon

  • 1411

Generally observed price: from CHF 100’000

Estimated selling price for CODE41: from CHF 20’000

Advantages: a spectacular complication, the tri-axial tourbillon offers a fascinating and unparalleled ballet, passing through all the possible positions thanks to its three axes of rotation

Disadvantages: a very high manufacturing cost due to its very complex machining (3 cages rotating on 3 axes), as well as its high number of components

Project milestones (indicative dates)

21 JUL. 2022

Supplier search and next steps

END SEPT. 2022

Colour and material research

JANUARY 2023

Reception of prototypes

SPRING 2023

Launch of pre-orders

Suggestions and remarks

Do you have a question? A suggestion? Don’t hesitate to leave a comment below, we will be happy to answer you!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Filter comments:
All (148)
Dutch (8)
English (23)
French (92)
German (18)
Italian (5)
Spanish (2)

  1. BOULAN Jean-Luc says:

    Je suis un grand fan de vos projets et je possède quasiment tous les modèles.
    Avant de voter pour le type de tourbillon, à ce stade du projet, a-t-on une idée de l’épaisseur du boitier avec les différents modèles de tourbillon svp ?

    • Zaineb
      Zaineb says:

      Bonjour Jean-Luc, merci pour votre fidélité ! 🤩 Nous n’avons pas encore confirmé l’épaisseur du boitier, car nous attendons les résultats du vote pour étudier les différentes possibilités et vous les présenter.

  2. Jean-Pierre Philippe says:

    That central tourbillon is a great opportunity to not make “just another” 6’o clock tourbi.. even if it has the code41 flavour

    • Zaineb
      Zaineb says:

      Thank you Jean-Pierre! That’s a very nice idea 😍 The central tourbillon doesn’t have the most votes at the moment, but we’ll see how it evolves in the upcoming days ⌚

  3. Paul-Andre Lazure says:

    Malheureusement c’est hors de prix pour moi. Déjà qu’une simple montre automatique de bonne qualité est un effort significatif pour moi. Vous vous adressez maintenant à une certaine élite dont je ne fais pas partie.
    Désolé. Je maintiens toutefois un intérêt pour vos projets abordables.

    • Zaineb
      Zaineb says:

      Hi Thuan, thank you for your suggestion! We actually have a program called ‘pre-boarding’. It gives you an early access 24h before other customers, but this program is only available on the existing watches, not on the new projects for the moment, but we may extend it in the future? 🤔

  4. Bessières says:

    Aurons nous la possibilité d’avoir des votes supplémentaires ? Par exemple sur le diamètre de la montre (entre deux ou trois diamètres que vous hésiterez peut-être, si il y’aurait un bracelet cuir, ou métal ou les deux.

    • Zaineb
      Zaineb says:

      Bonjour Pascal,

      Oui, nous lancerons un second vote dans quelques semaines ! 🤩 Pour les bracelets, nous déciderons cela en fonction des retours.

  5. FAHMI MOHAMED says:

    Bonjour,
    Je suis un admirateur de votre travail remarquable depuis le début de votre aventure. Il y a 4 ans je me suis procuré une anomalie 2 et là j’ai précommandé l’anomalie t4. Je n’ai pas eu la chance de commander la X41, faute de moyen, mais ce n’est pas grave. Bonne continuation.

    • Zaineb
      Zaineb says:

      Bonjour Mohamed,

      Ce n’est pas grave. Vous avez déjà commandé deux montres exceptionnelles de notre collection ANOMALY ⌚ Merci pour votre soutien Mohamed 🤩

privacy policy - Cookies